About Belovezhskaya Pushcha, the brand not only in the Brest region, but of all Belarus, I’ve heard lots but never been. Therefore, to visit Brest and not visit the Pushcha, the relic forest and rare bison would be an unforgivable frivolity.
Explored a little in advance is how much, at the bus station we got tickets to go by bus to the village of Kamenyuki village, where the Forest started. With difficulty repulsed from local cab drivers that offered us comfort domchat to Kamenyuki just 350 million (23 $) and 30 minutes, we were loaded into crowded, smells, curtains, a minibus and an hour later were in place.
Standing at two offices, advertise fun like “walking”, “Cycling”, “Walking by bus”, “Trip to the lake”, “Cages with animals”
While we stand in the sun in the stupid queue and slowly melting, weighed the pros and cons, I realized that I want most: I want to eat and crash somewhere in the shadows, in the bushes, and no Ju-Ju — no Forest, no bison, no.
Taking the tickets to the pools and in the historical-ethnographic Museum, we entered the territory of Belovezhskaya Pushcha… to be greeted by is aimed at us the barrel of a gun and a merciless look in his eyes. Monument “Here in the 41st killed three defenders” — a military theme everywhere in Belarus, and even at the entrance to Belovezhskaya Pushcha.
Right “Pines”, a small cafe, where we sent their tired feet. Inside, in the heat and fumes, the tower of Babel: all the tables are occupied, no room to fall, and one waiter, which is torn to pieces, and the fact remains that nice snap.
The menu was soup, friedge, potatoes and pork chops and things like that (looks like a menu for the whole of Belarus is compiled somewhere in Minsk, and then sent to the cafes and rasterscan). We tried to take the first, but a bored chef radacina at the empty counter told us that first you have to order from the waiter. We tried to make an order at the stunned waiter, but the evil told us to wait for.
I decided not to wait for the first, panting from the heat, odors and nasty sounds of restless children, even in this heat managed at the same time something to chew on and race with cosmic speed in the crowded cafe, almost ran out of this den of Belarusian catering.
Going to the place of distribution of the barbecue, I went up to my never ending joy found that there is almost no queue and ordered 200 grams of microwaved pork, two pancakes and herbal tea, rushed him into heading to a free table outdoors.
Choosing a place close to the woods and away from people, I’m not waiting for the female half with soup or friedge, knowing that it is a slow, difficult — to knock the evil waiter a plate obschepitovskih cabbage soup, evil began to chew the barbecue, gradually relaxing from the chirping of birds, the smell of pine, almost not at all regretting the lump sum for six small pieces of barely warm meat, rowing close to the pair and nowhere nowhere ragged cat, persistently and brazenly demanding me their portion of my kebab.
When on the plate there are two pieces appeared in the doorway of my female half, however, with empty hands. As it turned out, stunned when the waiter finished service others, over the soup with a friedge, and half of the other dishes on the menu. Regular service in Belarusian, however.
Cages with animals
Finished with a kebab and a little rest in the shade of tall pine trees, exhausted and have already begun was to think, not to jerk back, to the hotel — well it, this Forest, what I have not seen? — I finally gathered strength and came out on drenched 35-degree sun, the asphalt, which led to “the open-air cages with animals” — inhabitants of the Bialowieza forest.
At first the cages reminded me terribly conventional cages in our zoo: in the first “cage” raccoon dog, sticking his pink tongue, persistently and endlessly to ripples in the eyes, I measured out eight steps one way, eight another, while the other lay in the corner, apparently, philosophically realizing the futility of beating his tribeswoman; in the second, the beautiful lynx lay, turning my ass to the onlookers, ignoring them in every way.
Further, although the cages were similar to the enclosures: the space of a hundred meters a hundred, with the stumps of felled pine trees, but without “anyone”. Then we were able to meet with the African ostrich, which, in contrast to raccoon dogs and lynxes, on the contrary, we paid such close attention to the African that became not on itself. However, what does African ostrich had to Belovezhskaya Pushcha, I didn’t know, but the spectacle was curious: ostrich craned my neck, looked me right in the eyes, opened his beak, hissing, closed one eye, as if winking “As you ostriches, the inhabitants of the Belovezhskaya pampas, huh?” took a step back, here, again, pulled, looked, his
In another enclosure we saw a deer, which coexisted with wolves, horses, deer and, finally, the main inhabitant of the village of Bialowieza is. The family consisted of a bison bull, three females and one affectionate calves. Hand, as a domestic cow, they obediently took the apples from the hands of onlookers, peacefully mowing a wet black eye in the direction of the next Apple, and I knew that the wild in these wild bulls European plains exactly the same as when I was on vacation when I’m drunk and promicu what is it with the height of the window of the fifth floor.
Then we met with another resident of the Bialowieza forest — the brown bear, who shamelessly ate the banana, stood on its hind legs and paid little attention to all those who crowded around his cage. The explanatory inscription, however, was that “Brown bear have not found in Europe except in zoos” — but what’s the difference? If African ostriches in Belovezhskaya Pushcha is possible, why not brown bear?
Honestly, I was sorry and lynxes, and bears, and even bison, who obediently took the apples from his hands. First, they were in the cells were deprived of the most important that there is a wild beast of free will freestyle. Second, they were more like stuffed animals, tamed and domesticated. Although, maybe it’s better to be castrated fat cat to eat cat food from cans than to scour the hungry, in the cold dark woods, exposing themselves to danger?
On the way back we stopped in the historical-ethnographic Museum. I must say that the expositions were interesting and well maintained — it was evident that the funds allocated and attention. However, all without a single line — just try to guess which piece of history are represented there. The guide we had, and we had to figure out who that here the stationmaster with two-headed eagle on a beaver hat — Nicholas II or just passing through. Later I noticed the icon with headphones and numbered each place: apparently, visitors with a cognitive purpose were issued headphones. However, not only we walked without headphones, but all the other, wrinkling his forehead and trying to guess “who is who” and why he’s there.
The curtain, piluca and hot asphalt, we wound through tridtsatigradusnuyu Scorcher ten kilometers. Tired we feel weak at the knees I morden severely burned, suggesting to me that I now resemble a red Indian-Rouge Indian. I wanted to eat, drink and to stretch out somewhere on the couch under slowly whirring air conditioning and a frosty bottle of ice-cold beer in hand, exhausted.
That evening we returned to the hotel at ten o’clock. My half wanted watermelon, and we’re badly bent legs, dirty and tired, first found a store with watermelons and then, Laden like camels, past the Sahara, reached the house.
Watermelon eaten straight with a blunt knife, employed at the neighbors, sitting on the floor, gasping for sweet, life-giving water, from which it seemed that not all that bad and the body not so aching from fatigue.
Slept without hind legs, except sometimes getting up on them to release themselves from the will of languishing watermelon.
Came back lighter than I went there. Perhaps because were not on the night train on the West to the East, and in the half-empty bus all the time in a given direction. Came back in a hurry, bored, to understand how sad that it was over.